The hydroxyl acids are a collection of anti-aging cosmetic skin care ingredients with clinically proven benefits to skin. Their use in cosmetic anti-aging is unparalleled in the topical cosmeceutical market worldwide. The second- and third-generation polyhydroxy acids (PHAs), such as gluconolactone, and bionic acids (bionics) such as lactobionic acid and maltobionic acid, offer comparable antiaging and skin smoothing benefits of AHAs with enhanced gentleness. Due to their inherent mildness as well as enhanced moisturizing and antioxidant properties, PHAs and bionics provide anti-aging benefits for all skin types including sensitive, rosacea- and eczema-prone skin, as well as those who do not tolerate other anti-aging substances including retinol and prescription retinoids.
PHAs are not only mild and non-irritating, but they also provide unique benefits to skin when compared with traditional AHAs. In addition to numerous protective effects, research shows PHAs provide important anti-aging effects. A clinical study comparing the anti-aging effects of AHA and PHA products in two groups of women demonstrated significant and comparable improvement in both test groups over the twelve-week testing period, with improved gentleness in the PHA treatment group. Benefits from PHAs include skin smoothing, diminished appearance of pore size, uneven pigmentation and wrinkling, and improve elasticity, firmness and clarity.
Also within the AHA family of skincare ingredients are Bionic Acids, considered to be third generation hydroxy acids. Like PHAs, the Bionics have potent antioxidant effects. In addition, lactobionic and maltobionic acid, both Bionic Acids, are potent inhibitors of skin degrading matrix metalloproteinase enzymes (MMPs). MMP activity increases with age and sun exposure resulting in diminished skin matrix support and collagen loss, which leads to a collapse in the skin support network manifesting as wrinkles, skin laxity and telangiectasia (dilated capillaries). Reduction of MMP activity is an important anti-aging mechanism in that it helps to preserve skin’s collagen and dermal support matrix. Bionics also provide anti-aging effects by helping to build the skin’s own natural gel matrix by stimulating the production of glycosaminoglycans or GAGs (e.g., hyaluronic acid), components that bind water and build volume in skin to smooth wrinkles from the inside of skin outward. All of these important skin benefits are achieved in the absence of skin irritation. In fact, despite being acids, the Bionics are non-irritating.
All of the hydroxy acids provide meaningful anti-aging benefits to skin. There is a hydroxy acid, or a combination of hydroxy acids, that is right for every skin type — regular or sensitive, dry or oily, acne-prone or wrinkled.
Try these hydroxy acid products from Exuviance: